The Ultimate Dm4/5/Proto Sticky!!!

[bobo]

Frequently asked questions:
www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=660593

Includes some popular upgrades, and where to find some FAQ threads.

Basic Proto Info:

Proto Guide
Credit to DYE or PROTO or whoever originally wrote this.
Quick Reference:

§ Air Supply- The MATRIX should be operated using air/nitrogen gas only. This air needs to be supplied to the Hyper2 in-line regulator at a regulated pressure of no more than 850 psi. The Hyper2 in-line regulator comes factory preset at 230psi.
§ Turning On Your MATRIX- The MATRIX’s power is controlled by two buttons. The top button turns the marker on and off, while the bottom button turns the eye on and off. Hold the power button for 3 seconds to turn the marker on. The LED in the grip will illuminate during the boot sequence.

Note: If the eye is not working properly, try replacing the battery.
Orange-Boot Sequence
Red -Breech is clear, no ball (eye on)
Green -Ball in breech, ready to fire (eye on)
Blinking Orange-Indicates a low battery, battery should be changed as soon as possible
Blinking Red-Eye is off
Blinking Green-Eye failure


§ LPR- the LPR is preset from the factory at approximately 75-80 psi and should need no adjustment out of the box. If fine tuning adjustment is desired or needed, you must be sure that you are adjusting the LPR correctly. If the LPR is improperly adjusted, you could dramatically hinder the MATRIX’s performance, or prevent the marker from functioning at all.

Note: Turning the adjustment screw clockwise, or in, will lower the LPR’s output pressure. Turning the adjustment screw counterclockwise, or out, will raise the LPR’s output pressure.

§ Adjusting Velocity-The velocity is adjusted through the Hyper2 in-line regulator. The Hyper2 in-line is preset from the factory at approximately 230 psi. This pressure setting should have the marker shooting at about 285 fps. Your paint-to-barrel fit will also have a noticeable affect on your velocity. Make sure that the paintball fits into the barrel loosely but does not drop through.

Note: for the Hyper2, turning the adjustment screw clockwise, or in, will lower the output pressure, decreasing the velocity. Turning the adjustment screw counterclockwise, or out, will raise the output pressure, increasing the velocity.
Note: If the battery is too low, it may not be able to power the solenoid correctly. This will affect your Matrix’s velocity, causing it to become inconsistent and/or low.

Board Settings and Configuration Mode

§ There are four setting you can alter on the MATRIX board with the DIP switches inside the grip frame

ABS – Anti Bolt Stick.
Trigger Sensitivity – This setting adjusts the delay between two trigger pulls.
Dwell – This is the time the solenoid is activated for.
ROF – Rate of Fire when the eye is deactivated.

Anti Bolt Stick – When ABS is activated, the dwell is increased after 15 seconds of non-use for the next shot fired. This helps to prevent bolt-stick, but may result in higher velocity for the first shot. (To turn ABS on, you move the #1 dip switch up.)

Configuration Mode- The following settings can only be modified in configuration mode. To activate the configuration mode, turn your marker off and set DIP switch 2 to the on position. Next turn your marker on. The 3-color LED cycles through all colors for one second to indicate that you have entered the configuration mode. To cycle through different settings, pull and release the trigger. Configuration mode has 2 settings that can be changed.
§ Green- Trigger Sensitivity

Values 1-20 (factory default 5)
Trigger sensitivity is the amount of time that the trigger has to be released before the next trigger pull is allowed. In some situations with too low of a value, the marker may begin to shoot full-auto.

§ Red- Dwell

Values 5-30 (factory default at 18)
Dwell is the amount of time that the solenoid will be activated. Follow these steps for the best way to set your dwell:
1. Remove loader and any paintballs from the MATRIX marker.
2. With the dwell at 12, start increasing the value until the marker begins to fire.
3. When your reach the setting where the marker begins to fire, get some paint and a loader and go to the chronograph.
4. Increase the dwell until you see no increase in the velocity. This is the optimal dwell setting to be used.

§ Orange- Rate Of Fire (ROF)
[When Anti Chop Eye (ACE) is deactivated]

Values 5-24 (factory default 24bps)
The ROF is unlimited by software when the eye is on. The only limiting factor is the loader feed rate. The marker pneumatic cycle rate is far faster than any loader on the market. You should set this setting to the constant feed rate of your loader. Setting this higher than your loader is capable of feeding risks chopping a ball.

To Change The Value Of A Setting

1. While in configuration mode, pull the trigger and hold it for more than one second. The LED will flash to indicate the previous setting. After that, you can set the new value with the trigger. For example, if you want to change the trigger sensitivity to 7 units:
2. Cycle through menus by pulling and releasing the trigger until the LED lights GREEN(trigger sensitivity).
3. Pull and hold the trigger until the LED starts to flash (factory default for trigger sensitivity setting is 5 units, so the LED will flash 5 times).
4. When the LED stops flashing, pull and release the trigger seven times in a fast pace. The mnew value is set after you haven’t touched the trigger for one second. The LED will cycle through all colors to indicate that the new value is saved. All other configurations are changed the same way.
5. To exit configuration mode, set DIP 2 to the off position.

Note: You cannot turn your marker off with the power button when the marker is in configuration mode. You must first set DIP switch 2 to the off position.

Note: When you set the values, remember that only trigger sensitivity starts from 1. The “dwell” and “rate of fire” start from 5. Therefore, to set the dwell at 20, you need to pull the trigger sixteen times, because the first trigger pull will start at 5.

Checking Configurations

You can check your DIP switch configuration by pulling and holding the trigger when you turn the marker on. Hold the trigger until the LED starts flashing. Orange indicates the anti bolt stick (ABS) setting (1 flash = off and 2 flashes = on). For example, if your ABS is ON then the LED will flash orange twice.

Battery

The 9V battery will last for about 40,000 shots. Please be aware that there are substantial differences in performance between different brands of batteries. Use of high quality alkaline or lithium ion batteries is recommended for maximum battery life. If you plan not to use your marker for a long period of time (a month), it is recommended that you remove the battery from the marker. When the battery voltage starts to go too low, you will notice your velocity starts to decrease and the board can turn off. For tournament use, it is recommended to change the battery for each tournament. When changing your battery, take special care to ensure the wiring harness is not pinched under the battery.

Changing The Battery

The battery is housed on the left side of the grip frame. To access the battery, remove the three screws holding the left side grip panel down. Use a 3/32” Allen wrench. Carefully lift the battery out of the frame, taking care not to damage the battery lead wires.

When inserting a new battery, make sure the solenoid and eye wires are pushed into the wire passage at the rear of the frame. This will ensure that the wires are not pinched or cut.

Note: If the marker will not function with the eye on, there is a good change the battery needs to be changed.

[bobo]

How to clean your LPR:

PLEASE KEEP IN MIND: I'm going to try not to use and technical lingo in order to keep it n00bie friendly...


1. remove the grips off the grip frame so you can access the electronics... NOW take a pair of needle nose pliars and remove the solinoid and eye harness wires from the board *******BE CAREFUL****** These wire connections are ***VERY*** Fragile! They can easily break off



2. Remove the grip frame and flip the body upside down so you can access the LPR screw. It is the small set screw that is DIRECTLY behind the grip frame screw near the back of the body. Remove this screw...



3. Take the proper size hex key and remove the LPR Cap located just below the bolt...



4. now take a 10/32 screw / breech rod, and screw it into the copper fitting.... once screwed in, pull the entire lpr out... there are other ways the get the LPR out but this way is the proper way



5. Now set everything aside except for the LPR.....
At this time, wipe down the entire outside of the LPR assembly



6. Now take the same hex key you use to adjust the LPR pressure and remove the copper colored screw in the LPR~~~ NOTE: You will need to use a rag to grip the LPR assembly as you unscrew the copper screw



When you have the screw removed you will end up with this.... (thats the screw on the right with the little oring on it)



7. Now take a small and soft object (pencil eraser works for me) and stick it down the LPR and pres down on the little nipple looking thing so that the piston falls out along with the spring...



8. Now basically all you do now is wipe all the parts down very good and re-apply lube to all the orings (not alot since the lpr leads directly to the solinoid and excess lube can get into the noid)

you end up with this finally....



9. Now all you do is push the entire LPR back into the gun and you screw the set screw back in... NOTE: There are two little umm... Grooves? on the lpr where set screws will fit; a single round one and a long hotdog looking one... be sure the hotdog looking one is facing down so that the setscrew AND triggger frame screw will fit back in.


10. Put the LPR cap back on (no picture needed)


11. Next... Reattach the solinoid and eye harness wires to the board... (no picture needed).... THE solinoid wire goes in the left and the eye wire goes in the right... now reattach the grip frame to the gun


12. LASTLY... RESET YOUR LPR!!!!!! The stock lpr setting is 75 psi which is 5 turns out.





ANY DAMAGES DONE TO YOUR DM4 WHILE CLEANING THE LPR WHILE FOLLOWING MY DIRECTIONS ARE YOU FAULT COMPLETELY AND I CANNOT BE HELD LIABLE! tHESE SIMPLE STEPS WORK FOR ME AS THEY SHOULD FOR YOU. ANY DAMAGES DONE ARE BECAUSE OF THE CARELESSNESS OF THE OWNER

Soldering 101:

First of all. Safety First, eye glasses/goggles should be worn, and work at a good station. I did this on my floor due to being in a hurry. This should be done at a proper workstation. Carpet is highly flammable and not the safest, just wanted to get the pics up asap!

OK. Heres what your gonna need.

Soldering Iron/Gun (i use a gun, its just what i have)
Solder
Wire Cutters/Strippers (all i had was my pocket knife at the time)
Wires
Heat Shrink Tube (optional, but always for a good job and ensure the connection, can be found at ACE hardware)
Matches/Hair Dryer/Heat Shrink Gun (for heat shrink tube)
Wet Sponge



First, your gonna take your two wires and cut about 2mm of the plastic sleeve over the wire. This will expose the wire, becareful not to cut too hard causing loose or weak single wiring.




We now have two exposed ends of two wires. Our next step is to take one of the leads (exposed wire), our soldering iron, and solder and "lather" it up.

BE VERY CAREFUL WITH THE SOLDERING IRON IT CAN REACH TEMPATURES OF 800 DEGREES FARENHEIGHT

This is done by securing the wire (with maybe clamp of a device to hold it straight) Now very carefully plung in your soldering iron and give it about 5 minutes to warm up.

Now take a piece of solder and place it next the exposed wire on one side. Very carefully place the soldering iron on teh other side of the weire and letting just a small piece of solder cover the wire in a nice thin coat.


This is the correct way to solder, clamped, solder in postion on one side, iron on the other.



Do this to the other wire.



**To wipe the Soldering Iron clean, gently slide the iron back and forth on the wet sponge**

You now have two lathering up, and exposed ends of two wires. The next step is to connect them.

Again using some type of clamp/securing device to hold one of the wires in place.

Now again, being careful with the Soldering Iron, hold the iron in your rigth hand and the piece of wire in the other, hold the one wire up to the clamped/secured wire and gently place the exposed lead veritcally with the other one. hold the iron near the middle of the connection and let the sodler on both wires melt and form a nice think secure coating.

**To wipe the Soldering Iron clean, gently slide the iron back and forth on the wet sponge**



Allow the solder to cool, and unplug your soldering iron.

As of here you and done. The connection is secure and will work. But for those of you who are perfection freaks (much like myself) I ensure only the best and safest connection, so i use heat shrink tube.

PLEASE BE CAREFUL WITH FIRE!

We now have our connection, cut a small piece of heat shrink tube over the connection as so:



Then your match/hair dryer/heat shrink gun, it about 3 inches from below it, rotate the wire and the heat shrink tube will shrink, ensuring a tight connection and no room for breaks/wearing on the solder.

** I like matches due to the fact it shrinks all at the same time, but a hair dryer in the safest, please if your using matches BE VERY CAREFUL, when workign with any of these tools i cannot stress how important this is! **




And your done!

Hope this helps.

[bobo]

How to properly clean and lube a Dye Hyper 2 Regulator:

*****NOTE***** I added a diagram of parts to the bottom of the post so if you dont know what part i am talking about... go look!





1. Take a strap wranch and securly place it on the center of the reg. Next, take a 3/8 allen wrench and place it in the top of the reg (where it screws into the gun)... no just unscrew the top part off of the rest of the reg like so....




you will end up with this...




2. Now with the strap wrench still on, take a 5/16 allen wrench and place it in the bottom part of the reg (where you adjust the pressure from) And unscrew.... the little cap should come right off

you should get something that looks like this



3. Now, slide the swivel thing off the stem of the reg ( the swivel thingy is where you have your macro fitting going into )

you end up with this....



4. Now unscrew the velocity adj. screw ... it Should slide right out... after you do that, take something like a q-tip and stick it down the stem of the reg as to push the large silver piston and shims out... BE CAREFUL because there are 9 shims housed insde and they can fall off and become lost easily

when you get the piston and shims out, remove the 2 black orings off the stem of the reg... FINALLY!!!! Take a pick of somekind and reach it down the stem of the reg and get the little clear oring out from inside if it hasnt already come out yet...


you should end up with all these parts when you have finished disassembling the reg...






5. Now all you need to do is take a damp cloth and wipe ALL of the lube on everything on the reg... (no pics needed)

6. Now take the piston and apply lube GENEROUSLY to the entire piston (dont glob it on but put enough)

7. Now take the shims (there are 9) and stack them on the piston according to this diagram...
***NOTE*** you MUST... i mean MUST stack the shims properly or you WILL damage your gun!!!!




8. Now that the shims are on the piston slide the piston back into the stem part of the reg.... (no pic)

9. Now take the 2 little black orings and put them back onto the stem and apply lube generously (not globbed but enough)

10. Now place the little clear oring back into the stem after apply some lube to it... next take the velocity adj. screw and apply lube to the little black pring on it and screw it back into the reg

11. Now Slide the swivel thing back onto the stem with the little dimples facing up

12. Screw the bottom cap back onto the stem... be sure to tighten it as well

13. finally, screw the top cap thing (part that screws into the gun) back on... (be sure to apply some lube to the 2 orings on this peice as well)



WELL THATS IT GUYS!!!!


ENJOY!!!! AND GOOD LUCK!!!

[bobo]

Cleaning the Dm4 Bolt:

1. Unscrew the rearplug on the dm4 and then take a squeegee and push the ENITRE bolt kit out of the gun... when it comes out it should look like this




2. Unscrew the rear plug off of the boltkit assembly... watch out for sharp edges cuse this part of the boltkit has given me some rather unplesent gashes




3. Take somesort or pick/kinfe and remov the oring on the tip of the bolt... you will need to put this back on so dont freaking break it off please




4. Take a towel or something and put it over the tophat/beercan and unscrew them from eachother... sometimes they are overtightend so just wiggle em and they come apart! ONCE AGAIN be carful because i have gotten some bad gashes from this too!


When you get the beer can and tophat apart you should have something like this.....



5. Now take a towel or if you can get ahold of them, alcohol prep pads like doctors use, and wipe off EVERY SPECK OF LUBE!!! All of it!!!




At this time, you should inspect every oring to make sure it is in good condition... if need be, replace any bad orings...



6. Now take the DYE Slick lube that came with the DM4(or your favorite lube), and apply lube to each oring on the ***BOLT ONLY*** Apply lube generously to the 2 bolt stem orings and then some to the three orings in the middle of the bolt (bolt sail)... also wipe some lube in the enitre bolt itself... ONLY A LITTLE !!!!




7. Apply some lube to the tophat orings AND the beercan orings and slide the tophat backonto the rear end of the bolt with the fat end face the front AND slide the beercan onto the front of the bolt... screw the teo parts back together SNUGGLY but not TIGHT... you end up with something like this




8. Apply some lube to the orings on the rearplug ***BE CAREFUL*** as mentioned before you can recive painful gashes from this part of the bolt kit!!! Now slide the rearplug onto the back of the bolt and srew it SNUGGLY onto the tophat... you end up with this...




9. Once all the parts of the boltkit have been screwed together properly, take the oring from the tip of the bolt and slide it back on and apply SOME lube to that oring... you should FINALLY end up with this!




10. Slide the ENITIRE boltkit assembly backinto the DM4 and tighten the rearplug back onto the DM4 and you are finished and end up with,... VOILA!!!







EXTRA COMMENTS:
~ DYE Recommends you lube the bolt every 5 - 7 cases, BUT i lube my bolt after avery time i play and i must say out of the 2 matrix's i've had in the past year i have never had to replace a SINGLE oring!!! I HIGHLY Recommend you lube the bolt up as much as you possibly can!

~ If an oring show even a little bit of wear, then you need to replace it. If you don't replace it, it will only come back to haunt you!

~ You can tell if an oring is reciveing wear if you see black residue in the blt kit anywhere... If you see this then look for an oring that is begining to wear and replace it

[vvgprostock30]

If anyone else has any questions or would like to add something, pm either Bobo, or myself. WOW! um....nice, long, boring, fact-filled thread there Bobo.