The Wrath General Maintenance/FAQ

[bmxrcer190]

Diablo Wrath General Maintenance

Lubricants: Do not use lightweight liquid paintball marker oil in the Wrath. Paintball oil is best used in blowback markers to lubricate the hammer, which is a large steel cylinder sliding rapidly within the aluminum marker body. O-ring greases are best suited for the Wrath’s many small o-rings throughout the gun. Dow 33 grease, also known in paintball as Shocker grease, works well. Also, Battle Lube grease is very good, has a lower viscosity than Dow 33 (which means it’s more slippery), and lasts longer between applications.

HPR: Apply a liberal coating of grease to the HPR large aluminum piston. It is accessed by removing the bottom half of the regulator from the top half, then grabbing the end (inside the bottom half) with small pliers and pulling out. Be sure to insert the aluminum piston back into the regulator bottom the correct way, with the cupped tip of the piston facing up toward the top half of the regulator.

LPR: Apply a liberal coating of grease to the o-rings on the LPR’s large brass piston, as well as to the small o-ring on the long skinny brass piston. Each piston is accessed from opposite ends of the LPR. It is necessary to remove the LPR valve retaining nut from the threaded end of the LPR body to access the long skinny brass piston. This retaining nut has a small amount of Loctite applied to keep it in place. The LPR body should be removed from the gun, and the low-pressure hose fitting should be unscrewed from its side before placing the LPR body into a vice. Wrapping a thin towel or old t-shirt around the LPR body before putting it into the vice and clamping securely should prevent any scratching or marring to the LPR’s exterior surface. When reinserting the retaining nut, it is not necessary to apply Loctite. Make sure the retaining nut’s ground face is inward making contact with the spring, and that the retaining nut is as close to flush with the end of the LPR body as possible. Hand tightening the retaining nut is sufficient.

LPR Adapter: It is not necessary to remove the LPR adapter, held in by one M5x12 screw in the body in front of the vertical ASA, to perform regular maintenance. The only time it is necessary to remove this adapter is to access the cup seal and main valve. Be sure when reinserting the LPR adapter that you apply a small amount of grease to its two o-rings, and do not cut the o-rings when they are passing the mounting screw hole.

Solenoid/Low-Pressure Valve Assembly: Disassemble the Low-Pressure Valve Assembly from the Solenoid and grease all four o-rings inside. The two inner o-rings on the brass carrier make contact with the plunger piston which controls air flow, and should receive a liberal application of grease. The outer o-rings on the brass carrier are stationary and only need a small amount of grease to ease reassembly. When reinserting the carrier into the valve body, position one of the side air exit holes inline with the hose fitting in the valve body. When reinserting the plunger piston into the carrier, be sure the piston goes in with the grooved end in first. When reinserting the Solenoid/Low-Pressure Valve Assembly back into the trigger frame, make sure the Solenoid/Low-Pressure Valve Assembly is pushed as far forward toward the trigger switch as possible when tightening down the two set screws. If the Solenoid/Low-Pressure Valve Assembly comes loose or the solenoid plunger is in contact with the trigger frame, it may not permit the Low-Pressure Valve’s plunger piston to close and create a proper seal. This may cause a small leaking sound, or may even cause the bolt to rapidly cycle when the marker is first aired up.

Ram: Apply a liberal coating of grease to the o-ring on the small end of the ram.

Bolt: Keep the bolt clean and dry at all times. It is unnecessary to grease the bolt. Grease on the bolt will collect dust particles from the air and cause scratching of the inner surface of the body.

[bmxrcer190]

The LP valve is the front portion of the noid. They are actualy 2 seperate things, the noid is the electromagnet that throws the plunger forward, and the lp valve is what the plunger hits.
Here is how to remove and service it (I'm doing this by memory so if anythings wrong toolshed please correct me! )
First, disconnect the lp line so you can remove the lp valve from the gun.

1. Loosen the two set screws at the top of the noid like you would to adjust it. Then carefully unplug the noid wires to give yourself some slack while working. Remove the solenoid from the lcd side carefully. be careful with the yellow noid wires, as they are very brittle so don't bend them a lot at all. The plunger will just fall out if you flip it over so set it aside for now.

2. There are two small black screws holding the solenoid to the LP valve, Remove these with a small screwdriver and carefully seperate the two pieces.

3. You should now have a plunger, a big round solenoid, and The LP valve. there is a small brass disk around the valve pin in the LP valve. This may also fall out if It is turned over. You want it out anyway so also set it aside. Once the brass piece is removed, It should reveal the O-ring causing you problems, and more of the valve pin.

4. To remove the valve pin, Grasp it with the tips of your fingers and pull outward. It may be difficult to to with your fingers but I would use pliers to avoid micking it up. OK, now make sure you remember which way the valve pin was facing there is a normal side and a side with a slot. I don't remember which way it goes in off the top of my head and I don't feel like pulling apart my noid just to find out lol. Just make sure you notice what side goes in first and what side comes in contact with the o-ring.

5. When you pull the pin out, the o-ring should come with it. In front if that pin, In the tip of the valve housing there is a small spring, this is the spring that returns everything into the firing position. Also in front of that, I believe there is a small brass piece that sits doown in the hole at the VERY tip of the lp housing.

6. You can also pull out the entire brass valve in there, but I don;t think you need too lube the o-rings on that. It is basically the same as the normal valve in the gun. I used the hooked tip of a scribe to remove mine gently b/c I had to rebuild my noid a while ago.

7. Now, make sure the spring is sitting nice and straight in there, and lube up the main o-ring in the front of the valve that was removed wit the pin. Place it in its little seat, then replace the valve pin, remembring which way it went in. Make sure everything is seated right, then put the brass disk on over it.

8. Now to do a little test, while pressing soen in the brass dist with one hand, use something like the tip of a screwdriver, or better yet the plunger, and press on the valve pin making sure it returns.

9. After lubing everything, It should return fine soo you can now take the solenoid, Line up the holes, and replace the screws. Make sure the screws are snug, but don;t strip them out that would suck.

10. Now that everything is back together, Put the plunger in the back of the solenoid, re-install the solenoid into the trigger frame, plug it in, push it forward with a flat head screwdriver to give the plunger some room, and tighten the screws.

You are now ready for another 10,000 shots and have just taken apart the most intricate part of the gun (besides the board) and it wasn;t even that bad was it? Just make sure you don;t bend the yelloe wires to bad, they are liable to break. Well thats how you rebuild the solenoid in detail.

[bmxrcer190]

WORTHY WRATH VIDS:
www.putfile.com/media.php?n=Wrath2 Posted by CombatSkin
www.liquidthinker.net/Theman.../pbrockstar.wmv Posted by the No Regard Team

DIABLO WRATH FAQ:
-Autococker Threads
-.693 Bore Stock Barrel
-Electropneumatic Air Ram Operation (spring return)
-Break Beam Eyes
-Odyssey/Dragun/Spyder Feedneck
-Built in QEV (DO NOT ADD ANOTHER ONE)
-Dual rubber detents
-VERY good stock HP regulator (+/- 4 fps AFTER broken in)
-25g Trigger Switch
-Stock ASA has non-standard dovetail mount (This means if you want to add a drop forward, you'll need to buy a drop, an on/off ASA and a macroline kit)
-Autococker Vertical ASA Compatable.
-2 Versions sold so far; 1st generation (Silver Jewels) and 2nd generation (Diablo Jewels)
-Dragun T1 valve compatable.*Not yet confirmed
-An HP tank is reccomended for the Wrath, though LP will work.
-Weighs in (without barrel) at 2lbs 11.8oz

HOW DOES A WRATH WORK?
www.pbnation.com/showthread....threadid=958351

WRATH MANUAL:
www.paintballsolutions.com/0...anual_wrath.pdf

MAINSCREEN EXPLANATION/TUTORIAL
www.pbnation.com/showthread....threadid=974105

Diablo Contact: [e-mail]

DISSASEMBLED PICS FOR REFERENCE:
www.pbnation.com/showthread....threadid=831035
www.liquidthinker.net/Theman/Wrath/

PART DIAGRAM AND LIST!!! Special thanks to jjdustr340
www.pbnation.com/showthread....hreadid=1066811

FACTORY RELACEMENT PARTS:
www.888paintball.com/888brow...ABLO&scid=WRATH

HPR TEST GRAPH:
Use this for reference on recharge rates/performance of aftermarket high pressure regulators. The Stock Wrath HPR is based off of the AA Vigilante design (as is the Bob Long Torpedo). The "Mystery Reg" is the AKALMP 2 Liter.
haveblue.org/dyno/5jun04dyno.jpg


CURRENT UPGRADES & MODS:

Custom Anodizing:
www.precisionpb.com They ano an entire marker for $60 or a per-peice price of $7.50 and do GREAT work. They also do color matching, so send in a paint chip or color sample and get great results.

Wrath Aftermarket Parts:
Alamo City Paintball: www.alamocitypb.com
Bolts, Cup Seals, Bolt Pins, more soon

FBM Delrin Wrath Triggers:
www.fbmfactory.com

Trigger Mod:
www.pbnation.com/showthread....t=&pagenumber=1

Trigger Switch Mods:
www.pbnation.com/showthread....threadid=856551
www.pbnation.com/showthread....hreadid=1022251

Trigger Guard Mod:
www.pbnation.com/showthread....threadid=894727

Aftermarket LPR Adapter:
The Wrath and O3 share many parts, and the LPR adapter is one of them, so if you have the mind to put on an aftermarket LPR, pick up the Zenitram O3 LPR adapter for $15 and an Autococker compatable LPR.
www.zenitram-mfg.com/ (Odyssey Upgrades>O3 LPR adapter)

Delrin Bolts:
zoompaintball.com/ (Sells BLACK delrin bolts)
www.pbnation.com/showthread....threadid=846394
www.spudnukl.com

PROS: Self-lubrication. Roughly 27 grams.

Nylatron Bolts:
www.pbnation.com/showthread....threadid=896352

PROS: Self-lubrication. Roughly 25 grams.

TFE Teflon Bolts:
www.spudnukl.com

PROS: Self-lubrication. Roughly 50 grams.

Wrath T-board:
www.scenariodreams.com
www.pbnation.com/showthread....threadid=855370

Custom Triggers:
Do a search for pbnation users: Comcast and THE BETTERONE

Air Ram Mod:
www.pbnation.com/showthread....threadid=864525

Autococker Vertical ASAs:
secure1.nexternal.com/share...ount2=979987740
(Scroll down- Straight and 15* ASAs with or without gauge ports)

Full Auto Mod: *Caution*
Above the top switch on the main board are two prongs. Placing a jumper on these will enable full auto mode. -Thanks to reddragun5 for supplying this info. More Here:
www.pbnation.com/showthread....ghlight=%2Bauto
WARNING- This mod may cause damage to your board if not done properly!

LCD to LED Mod:
www.pbnation.com/showthread....hreadid=1057378

Rubber Grip Mod:
Stock grips look shoddy? Rit Dye them! Takes a couple of hours (depending on the color and darkness you want) in hot (near boiling) water/dye. If you want your LCD screen area to remain clear, be sure to mask it off with hot glue etc. on BOTH SIDES. If you need a tutorial on dye, go here:
www.pbnation.com/showthread....threadid=452598

CPS and Operating Pressure:

1. CPS can be increased by installing the ACP delrin ram and increasing the OP to around 400 PSI. This will reduce kick as well and as far as I can tell, has minimal effect on shot count per tank fill. Adding a delrin pin and a delrin or nylatron bolt will further increase CPS (and operating pressure).
2. If you are a LP zealot and would rather have a Wrath that operates at the lowest possible pressure above all else, then getting a custom steel ram made plus buying a Spudnuk'l TFE Teflon bolt (same weight as the stock bolt, but has self lubricating properties) will be a good start. This is because the MORE MASS you have moving in the tube, the lower your pressure will need to be, however CPS may suffer using the stock spring.
3. So here is the equation in a nutshell: MP=C M is mass, P is pressure and C is cyles per second. In this simple equation you can see that mass and pressure are inversely related assuming that C remains constant. Increase the values of M and P (according to the suggestion in #1) and you increase C, subsequently, decrease the values of M and P and you decrease C (not advisable). However, increase M and you may decrease P (according to the suggestion in #2) to obtain roughly the same C (probably a little lower due to the fact that exact values are not known or taken into account). Don't worry about having to do any complicated math here, though it certainly COULD be applied if you're really OCD and would most likely result in more precise and predictable performance...

[bmxrcer190]

Ok first, you must buy some Radio Shack 1/8" rare earth magnets(package of two. Then, to make it easiest, tap the pin out of your trigger and take your trigger out. You can either put glue on the trigger first or glue on the magnet, either way its fine, and then you place the magnet on the trigger. I find the best feel to be at the bottom of the trigger right where it lines up right before the curve on the frame. Then, you find out which side is the attracting side of the trigger and put glue on that side so it will repel. You then place the magnet, attracting side down, onto the frame wherever you feel you want it at.(To repel, each magnet needs to be almost exactly across from each other.) Put your trigger back in the frame, make sure eerything is lines up, push the pin back, and rip.

[bmxrcer190]

to initially set the lpr pressure, screw the lpr all the way out. Then set the hpr to 200-250psi. Turn the lpr a half turn, then shoot over a chrono, half turn, shoot, keep doing this until you get it at 280fps. Once at 280fps, the lpr is set correctly, and any further velocity adjustments should be done with the hpr.

For the delrin ram, the HPR should be running at 400psi, then do the same procedure as above to dial in the lpr. I think i heard somewhere that the lpr is actually set lower with the delrin ram, but im not sure.

[bmxrcer190]

SETUP
The setup modes are broken into individual settings, Dwell, Debounce, etc. When you first enter the setting, it will NOT be changed. This is so you can go to the next setting without having to re-enter your setting. Once you pull the trigger once, the setting will be reset to its minimum. Every trigger pull after that will increment the setting a defined about. You can go to the next setting by clicking the upper button once. You can exit the setup mode by clicking the power button once. The setting after the last setting in SETUP1 is the first of SETUP2. The ON/OFF type settings (Eye Mode, Valve Disable, Valve Mode) alternate with trigger pulls, the LED will turn ON (setting Enabled) or OFF (setting Disabled). If you have an open bolt marker (i.e. TES, Black Dragun, T1, etc.), the T-Board will ignore all Close Bolt marker settings as long as you have DISABLED the Valve setting.

Definitions:
Dwell time the solenoid or electropnuematic valve is engaged.
Eye Delay delay from when the trigger is pulled to when the marker actually fires.
Debounce time the board waits for the trigger to stop bouncing. Low debounce will double fire.
Eye Disable Time time the trigger must be held in to disable the eye.
Eye Mode type of eye installed, Break or Bounce beam. If no eye is installed, set to Breakbeam.
Eye Installed if an eye is installed Enable, if not Disable. For Close Bolt markers only
Valve disables the 3-way front valve; OFF for NO VALVE, ON for VALVE.
Valve Mode Adjustable – valve is on for a set period of time (Valve Dwell)
Classic – valve is on as long as the trigger is pulled (like mechanical markers)
Valve Delay time from pull of trigger to engaging of front valve (3-way)
Valve Dwell time the valve is engaged. For Close Bolt markers only
Eye Valve Delay amount of time board waits before checking eye. For Close Bolt markers only

SETUP1 Default Min (OFF) Max (ON) Increments
Dwell 5ms 2ms 100ms 1ms
Eye Delay 20ms 1ms 100ms 5ms
Debounce 5ms 1ms 100ms 1ms
EyeOff Tme 2sec .25sec 20sec .25sec
Eye Mode Break Break Bounce Brea/Boun

SETUP2
Eye Installed Off Off On ON/OFF
Valve Off Off On ON/OFF
Valve Mode Classic Classic Adjust Adj/Class
Valve Delay 15ms 2ms 100ms 1ms
Valve Dwell 30ms 20ms 100ms 1ms
ValveEyeDelay 30ms 20ms 100s 1ms

Example1: (TES, T1, ONE, Wrath, etc.)
Turn on the marker with Button1 held down until the LED blinks once,
release Button1.
Pull trigger three times (Dwell: 2+1+1ms), click Button1 (next setting),
click Button1 (next setting, Eye Delay unchanged),
pull trigger four times (Debounce: 1+1+1+1ms), click Button1 (next setting),
click Button1 (next setting, Eye Disable unchanged),
pull trigger once (Breakbeam, LED OFF),
click Button2 (exit Setup mode).

Marker is ready for play for an Open bolt marker with a 4ms Dwell, an unchanged Eye Delay, a 4ms Debounce, an unchanged Eye Disable, and Breakbeam eyes. All setting in SETUP2 will remain unchanged.

Example2: (Dragunfly, Drallion)
Turn on the marker with Button1 held down until the LED blinks once, release Button1.
Pull trigger four times (Dwell: 2+1+1+1ms), click Button1 (next setting),
click Button1 (next setting, Eye Delay unchanged),
pull trigger once (Debounce: 1ms), click Button1 (next setting),
pull trigger twice (Eye Disable: 0.25+0.25 sec), click Button1 (next setting),
pull trigger until LED is ON (Bouncebeam, LED ON), click Button1 (next setting),
pull trigger until LED is ON (Eye Installed), click Button1 (next setting),
pull trigger until LED is ON (Valve: ON), click Button1 (next setting),
pull trigger until LED is OFF (Valve Mode: Classic), click Button1 (next setting),
pull trigger five times (Valve Delay: 2+1+1+1+1ms), click Button1 (next setting),
pull trigger five times (Valve Eye Delay: 20+1+1+1+1ms),
click Button2 (exit Setup mode).

Marker is ready for play for a Closed Bolt Marker with a 5ms Dwell, an unchanged Eye Delay, a 1ms Debounce, a .5 sec Eye Disable, Bouncebeam eyes, Eyes installed, Front Valve in On, Classic valve mode, 6ms Valve Delay, an unchanged Valve Dwell, and a 25ms Valve Eye Delay.