Post by k00leo on Jul 16, 2005 9:46:02 GMT -5
Originally posted by tripnotemple on Pbreview
I've had a few people ask me already about some of the mods I have listed in my sig, so I thought I'd share with you how they were done. There are websites online that you might find some good information, but a lot of it will actually hurt your gun if you're not careful. the the do-it-yourself full auto mods, for example, are not listed here because they DO NOT work and WILL damage your gun. A tippmann is just not made to cycle that fast and the mods attempt to do it in an incorrect way. Anyway, here is a list of mods that will work, and won't hurt your gun.
Polishing the internals:
For this you'll need Brillo/S.O.S pads(just wash all the soap out first) or steel wool pads from your local hardware store, aluminum polish(which also can be picked up at a local hardware store, or possibly at a car parts store as polish for rims ), and don't forget to have some clean rags around.
This will help the bolt cycle a little smoother, resulting in better efficiency. Okay, first, take your gun apart and lay the two receiver halves on the table. Take a rag and wipe down the the inside of the receiver halves to get rid of any oil on them. Next Get your steel wool out, and start scrubbing the areas where the bolts sit in. It takes a lot of elbow grease to get the paint off. Do not over scrub though! Scrub until all the paint is gone. Once that's done, take a rag and wipe out and metal dust. Grab a clean rag, and apply the polish. Scrub it in real good. Grab another rag, wet it, and wipe the insides down again. Re-oil and put your gun back together...And you're finished!
Polishing the stock barrel
For this you'll need a drill, a 12 inch rod or stick (cut the bottom piece off a coat hanger), rags, and aluminum polish.
This will make the stock barrel perform much better. Grab your drill and put the stick in. Grab a rag or two and apply a lot of the aluminum polish to them. Next, put the rags over the end of the stick. Grab the barrel and insert the stick, and drill, moving the stick in and out to get the whole length of the barrel. It may get pretty hot because of the friction. 20 minutes should be fine, but if you want to go longer you can. When you finish, wash the barrel out with water. Grab a clean rag and put it on the stick. run the stick through the barrel for a minute to dry it out and get any residue. And presto! A much shinier, accurate stock barrel!
Silencing the internals
For this you'll need electrical tape, thin foam tape(or felt and super glue), a rag, and scissors. Note- Do NOT use Teflon tape! All of these are small mods, and may not last long. Some may have to be re-applied.
Ok, so the first place to start is the asa. Unscrew it from whatever it's mounted to(either the trigger frame or a drop forward) and cut a strip of foam tape or felt to fit on the mounting of the asa. poke the holes for the screws to fit back in and re-attach the asa to your gun. This will silence tank pinging. Next, take your gun apart. find the sear spring, and wrap it once around with electrical tape. only once around because we don't want the tape to get in the way of the spring tensing and untensing. This will stop part of the ping you hear when the sear engages. Lastly, take out the rear bolt. Wipe the end of it down with a rag( the part that goes into the powertube and hits the valve) and cut a small square piece of foam tape or felt to fit on the end. glue or stick the square piece you cut on the bolt, re-oil, and put the gun back together. And now your gun will be noticeably quieter.
fix that hopper wobble
An easy way to fix this is to take a flat rubber band, and cut a couple of small pieces to fit on the bottom and side of the elbow latch. super glue them on, and you won't have a problem again.
Elbow gas blowback mod
For this you'll need a drill and a drill bit. the drill bit should be a little smaller than the width of a pencil.
This is supposed to keep any blowback gas from blowing paintballs back up into the hopper. take the feed elbow off the gun, and lay it down so the tightening screw is facing up. you want to drill two holes far apart from each other, right above where it starts to curve ******d. if you look at where the two phillips head screws are on the side of the elbow, you want to drill a hole between that and where the elbow starts to curve. Drill the hole in the same place on the other side, and you're all done!
Quick Strip Receiver mod
(picture attached at end of post)
For this you'll need a coping saw or a jigsaw. The blade must be very thin and maneuverable, which is why you can't use a hacksaw. You'll also need a ruler and pencil or fine tip marker.
This will Dramatically help the time it takes to field strip your tippmann if you have sticky grips on your gun, and will still help a lot otherwise. This mod takes a lot of patience and precision cutting. it's not difficult if you take your time. Ok, so first take apart your tippmann. Once you get your gun apart, grab the left receiver half( the left side is the side with the velocity screw).
this is the side we'll be cutting. next, grab the pencil or fine tip marker and your ruler. ( take a look at the picture below before you start drawing so you know exactly what I'm talking about) What you want to do is draw a diagonal line starting at the bottom of the receiver(about a half inch in front of the trigger guard... or right at the end of the hole where the braided hose goes up into the valve), to the top center of the trigger guard screw and about 1/16 of an inch from where the tippmann receiver starts to curve out. then you need to draw a perfectly straight line, staying just below the curve(1/16 of an inch), to the end of the screw after the grip. (The reason for the 1/16 inch is to leave a little meat before the curve so you don't cut into the bolt chamber). Then, come diagonally down to the bottom of the receiver. If you looked at the picture below this should make sense. When you cut, make sure you're not holding the saw tilted because the cut will be angled. take your time, and stay exactly on the line. When you finish the sawing, you don't need to file it. Remember, this leaves a little bit of a gap where dirt can get in. filing it would make the gap bigger. Put everything back together like you normally would. Now, when you have to oil or clean, this will save half the time!
Lighter/shorter trigger pull
(Note: This is not necessary with the response trigger)
There are many ways to change the trigger pull...by changing to a lighter sear spring (orthodontic elastic), or a lighter trigger spring (pen spring), or even shortening it by drilling a screw into the trigger guard to keep the trigger from returning all the way. Steps for these are in the trigger sticky www.pbreview.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=71744
Magnetic Trigger Mod
This trigger mod is brought to us by lostinthewoods and is a little different than the ones found in the trigger sitcky, so I thought I'd post the steps here. The magnetic trigger return makes the trigger feel much snappier (comparable to angels and matrixs people say), and makes the pull shorter. With this mod you might not even need a trigger spring depending on the size of the magnets you use (because the size of the magnets will determine the length of the pull). But, if after putting in the magnets you feel it's too light when the trigger is engaging the sear, you can take a pen spring and cut it in half for your trigger spring (the spring only needs to be short, and light to fix this). Take a look at the picture. the red circle shows you the magnets. They are held in place with 3000 psi shear strength epoxy, which you can buy at a local hardware store. One magnet is glued to the bottom of the powertube. The trigger is cut so the other magnet fits in so that when the trigger is in it's normal postion, the magnets are lightly touching. The magnets are the rare earth type which are very powerful, and can be purchased through www.mscdirect.com/IWCatSectionView.process?Keyword=Y&RestartFlow=t&Merchant_Id=1&p_section_Id=2010046&Section_Id=2010046&p_product_type_Id=3333&ShowProductList=t&SelectedAtt.length=0&pbegin=0&pcount=15&NameVector.length=0&View.x.x=92&View.x.y=14
The part number is 71551691 (if for some reason this link doesn't work, search www.mscdirect.com for rare earth magnets. and look for the smallest diameter round magnets) or you might be able to find the right size on ebay.
Here's a pic of the magnetic trigger modwww.pbreview.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=432707
Anodizing the model 98
This is not my own idea, but I found this while searching online. It's a great alternative to painting, although it may cost you a lot to do this. www.paintballtimes.com/anodize.htm
Anyone else have some unique mods? post them up!
I've had a few people ask me already about some of the mods I have listed in my sig, so I thought I'd share with you how they were done. There are websites online that you might find some good information, but a lot of it will actually hurt your gun if you're not careful. the the do-it-yourself full auto mods, for example, are not listed here because they DO NOT work and WILL damage your gun. A tippmann is just not made to cycle that fast and the mods attempt to do it in an incorrect way. Anyway, here is a list of mods that will work, and won't hurt your gun.
Polishing the internals:
For this you'll need Brillo/S.O.S pads(just wash all the soap out first) or steel wool pads from your local hardware store, aluminum polish(which also can be picked up at a local hardware store, or possibly at a car parts store as polish for rims ), and don't forget to have some clean rags around.
This will help the bolt cycle a little smoother, resulting in better efficiency. Okay, first, take your gun apart and lay the two receiver halves on the table. Take a rag and wipe down the the inside of the receiver halves to get rid of any oil on them. Next Get your steel wool out, and start scrubbing the areas where the bolts sit in. It takes a lot of elbow grease to get the paint off. Do not over scrub though! Scrub until all the paint is gone. Once that's done, take a rag and wipe out and metal dust. Grab a clean rag, and apply the polish. Scrub it in real good. Grab another rag, wet it, and wipe the insides down again. Re-oil and put your gun back together...And you're finished!
Polishing the stock barrel
For this you'll need a drill, a 12 inch rod or stick (cut the bottom piece off a coat hanger), rags, and aluminum polish.
This will make the stock barrel perform much better. Grab your drill and put the stick in. Grab a rag or two and apply a lot of the aluminum polish to them. Next, put the rags over the end of the stick. Grab the barrel and insert the stick, and drill, moving the stick in and out to get the whole length of the barrel. It may get pretty hot because of the friction. 20 minutes should be fine, but if you want to go longer you can. When you finish, wash the barrel out with water. Grab a clean rag and put it on the stick. run the stick through the barrel for a minute to dry it out and get any residue. And presto! A much shinier, accurate stock barrel!
Silencing the internals
For this you'll need electrical tape, thin foam tape(or felt and super glue), a rag, and scissors. Note- Do NOT use Teflon tape! All of these are small mods, and may not last long. Some may have to be re-applied.
Ok, so the first place to start is the asa. Unscrew it from whatever it's mounted to(either the trigger frame or a drop forward) and cut a strip of foam tape or felt to fit on the mounting of the asa. poke the holes for the screws to fit back in and re-attach the asa to your gun. This will silence tank pinging. Next, take your gun apart. find the sear spring, and wrap it once around with electrical tape. only once around because we don't want the tape to get in the way of the spring tensing and untensing. This will stop part of the ping you hear when the sear engages. Lastly, take out the rear bolt. Wipe the end of it down with a rag( the part that goes into the powertube and hits the valve) and cut a small square piece of foam tape or felt to fit on the end. glue or stick the square piece you cut on the bolt, re-oil, and put the gun back together. And now your gun will be noticeably quieter.
fix that hopper wobble
An easy way to fix this is to take a flat rubber band, and cut a couple of small pieces to fit on the bottom and side of the elbow latch. super glue them on, and you won't have a problem again.
Elbow gas blowback mod
For this you'll need a drill and a drill bit. the drill bit should be a little smaller than the width of a pencil.
This is supposed to keep any blowback gas from blowing paintballs back up into the hopper. take the feed elbow off the gun, and lay it down so the tightening screw is facing up. you want to drill two holes far apart from each other, right above where it starts to curve ******d. if you look at where the two phillips head screws are on the side of the elbow, you want to drill a hole between that and where the elbow starts to curve. Drill the hole in the same place on the other side, and you're all done!
Quick Strip Receiver mod
(picture attached at end of post)
For this you'll need a coping saw or a jigsaw. The blade must be very thin and maneuverable, which is why you can't use a hacksaw. You'll also need a ruler and pencil or fine tip marker.
This will Dramatically help the time it takes to field strip your tippmann if you have sticky grips on your gun, and will still help a lot otherwise. This mod takes a lot of patience and precision cutting. it's not difficult if you take your time. Ok, so first take apart your tippmann. Once you get your gun apart, grab the left receiver half( the left side is the side with the velocity screw).
this is the side we'll be cutting. next, grab the pencil or fine tip marker and your ruler. ( take a look at the picture below before you start drawing so you know exactly what I'm talking about) What you want to do is draw a diagonal line starting at the bottom of the receiver(about a half inch in front of the trigger guard... or right at the end of the hole where the braided hose goes up into the valve), to the top center of the trigger guard screw and about 1/16 of an inch from where the tippmann receiver starts to curve out. then you need to draw a perfectly straight line, staying just below the curve(1/16 of an inch), to the end of the screw after the grip. (The reason for the 1/16 inch is to leave a little meat before the curve so you don't cut into the bolt chamber). Then, come diagonally down to the bottom of the receiver. If you looked at the picture below this should make sense. When you cut, make sure you're not holding the saw tilted because the cut will be angled. take your time, and stay exactly on the line. When you finish the sawing, you don't need to file it. Remember, this leaves a little bit of a gap where dirt can get in. filing it would make the gap bigger. Put everything back together like you normally would. Now, when you have to oil or clean, this will save half the time!
Lighter/shorter trigger pull
(Note: This is not necessary with the response trigger)
There are many ways to change the trigger pull...by changing to a lighter sear spring (orthodontic elastic), or a lighter trigger spring (pen spring), or even shortening it by drilling a screw into the trigger guard to keep the trigger from returning all the way. Steps for these are in the trigger sticky www.pbreview.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=71744
Magnetic Trigger Mod
This trigger mod is brought to us by lostinthewoods and is a little different than the ones found in the trigger sitcky, so I thought I'd post the steps here. The magnetic trigger return makes the trigger feel much snappier (comparable to angels and matrixs people say), and makes the pull shorter. With this mod you might not even need a trigger spring depending on the size of the magnets you use (because the size of the magnets will determine the length of the pull). But, if after putting in the magnets you feel it's too light when the trigger is engaging the sear, you can take a pen spring and cut it in half for your trigger spring (the spring only needs to be short, and light to fix this). Take a look at the picture. the red circle shows you the magnets. They are held in place with 3000 psi shear strength epoxy, which you can buy at a local hardware store. One magnet is glued to the bottom of the powertube. The trigger is cut so the other magnet fits in so that when the trigger is in it's normal postion, the magnets are lightly touching. The magnets are the rare earth type which are very powerful, and can be purchased through www.mscdirect.com/IWCatSectionView.process?Keyword=Y&RestartFlow=t&Merchant_Id=1&p_section_Id=2010046&Section_Id=2010046&p_product_type_Id=3333&ShowProductList=t&SelectedAtt.length=0&pbegin=0&pcount=15&NameVector.length=0&View.x.x=92&View.x.y=14
The part number is 71551691 (if for some reason this link doesn't work, search www.mscdirect.com for rare earth magnets. and look for the smallest diameter round magnets) or you might be able to find the right size on ebay.
Here's a pic of the magnetic trigger modwww.pbreview.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=432707
Anodizing the model 98
This is not my own idea, but I found this while searching online. It's a great alternative to painting, although it may cost you a lot to do this. www.paintballtimes.com/anodize.htm
Anyone else have some unique mods? post them up!
