Post by spyderp8balla on Jul 17, 2005 15:55:09 GMT -5
Upgrading Your Spyder
So, you want to upgrade your Spyder, but don’t know what to get. Well, this should help you.
Barrel: One of the first things you’ll want for Spyder is a new barrel. A barrel is a good performance upgrade, to help achieve better accuracy. Be sure you know your exact bore size of your barrel, because you’ll need a good match-up with paint. Now that you now what the barrel helps achieve, but you don’t know which one to choose from. Well, here’s a guide.
$20 - $40 range: SP Teardrop, CP Classic, J&J Ceramic
$40 - $60 range: SP AA, CP 2 piece, Evil Driver
$60+ range: J&J Edge Kit, SP Freak barrel/kit, Empire Barrel Kits
New Hopper: So, you’ve got an electronic marker, and you’re chopping. Your problem may lie within your hopper, not the bolt like most people would say. I would suggest the eggII for your loader. Why you ask? Mainly because it’s:
Reliable, Easy to use/maintain, Fast, Battery saver, Good quality shells, and even Upgradeable!
There are other cheaper choices out there like the revvy, reloader II, and a few others that may work out fine when you’re just starting out, but you’ll want something faster because your fingers are getting faster. And this is that something
HPA tank: This is another good investment. CO2 can spike a lot, destroy o-rings, and give shootdown. With HPA, those are things of the past. I recommend crossfire or centerflag tanks. They have faster recharges than most other tanks on the market. Good sizes to get are 45/45 or 68/45 (fiber wrapped). If you’re on a low budget, you could pick up a 47/30 or 68/30 steel tanks for much cheaper. Get whatever size suits you the best. If you really can’t afford any of that, then anti-siphon your CO2! It will help out some, but not like HPA.
Feedneck: Tired of that POS plastic feedneck breaking? Pick up a metal, clamping feedneck. Good feednecks to look at, are the CCM ones, or the NDZ ones. They sit low and clamp very well. They can be a little pricey, so if you don’t want to spend $30+ on a feedneck, you could get a lapco one, which is clamping, for around $20.
Triggers/Switches: Sick of not being able to shoot past 10BPS? Want to shoot faster? Of course you do. So you should get a new trigger and switch. The stock switch is 250 grams. Aftermarket switches range from 25-50 grams. 25 gram switches bounce a lot so 50 grams is your best bet. SPPS sells switches with leads (solderless route), or without. To go with the switch, you’ll need a new trigger. Triggers are personal preference, and shouldn’t be decided on what others think. Besides preference, there’s quality. SPPS and ACP make the best quality triggers. Look into one of those to go with your new switch.
Board(s)Looking for a new board becasue you're capping your stock one, then check out the Scenario Dreams T-Board. The T-Board is a substitute control board for all electronic Spyders. The T-Board has an uncapped rate of fire (depends on your fingers speed) and includes an optional eye. If the eye is installed, it can be disabled at anytime by holding down the trigger for two sec.
T-Board Specs:
Uncapped firing rate
Tournement legal (Semi-auto only)
Breakbeam or bouncebeam eye option Breakbeam vs. Bouncebeam
Eye can be disabled on the fly (i.e. during play)
1 million trigger pull checks per second
Software debounce
Fully adjustable dwell times What is Dwell?
Fully adjustable eye delay
Saves settings when turned off
Setting to align eye during installation Eye Alignment Tool?
Upgradable Microcontroller
Uses stock charging plug
120 day (4 month) limited warranty against defects
30 day money back guarantee
The IR eye is availiable in both breakbeam and bouncebeam. It is recommended that the eye be installed by a certified airsmith or someone familiar with the operation of the marker. There is also a setting that will aid you with aligning the eye.
The T-board checks for trigger pulls 2.4 million times per second and has built-in debounce programming.
There is another board out made by XSF, but it's double the amount of money, and gives the same preformance, so I would never recommend it.
ASA (Air Source Adapter): Unfortunately for Spyder owners, the frames have offset holes, as opposed to every other gun with straight holes. Therefore, almost all drops and ASA will not fit without an adapter block. If you wish to use something like a CIP Unimount, then you'll need to find an adapter block. There are a few Spyder made drops out there, but if you're a non-drop inthusiast like most people, you'll need an adapter block. Good Unimounts would be:
NDZ EZ Turn, CP Direct Mount, and the CIP Unimount.
Grips: Looking for something way more comfortable than the stock grips? Then you'll want to pick up something like DYE stickies or the SP Protouch grips. Grips aren't a preformance upgrade, just a cosmetic upgrade, meant to achieve comfort.
LP Upgrades
A Spyder with stock internals operates at 800PSI. Most people don't know that LP is a side effect of max efficiency. Max efficiency comes at 300-400 PSI, so running any lower would defeat the purpose of achieving maximum efficiency.
OK, so now you know that, but you're wondering what you need to do to run your pressure that low. Not too hard, you'll need to get/mod:
Regulator - To lower and raise pressure, duh. A good choice for a regulator would be the Bob Long Torpedo, mainly because it can run off of CO2, fast recharge, inexpensive, and is very consistent.
High Flow V/A - To increase flow and allow you to run at a lower pressure, you'll need a new V/A. You can mod your current one, or you could buy a new one. An example of an aftermarket V/A is the CIP Assault Block (I recommend that one). It has a guage port, and is the highest flowing one.
Valve - The most crucial part to a low pressure setup. Once again, you can mod your current one, or buy an aftermarket one. There are plenty of aftermarket valves, but I recommend the NDZ one. It's cheap, and does it's job very well. What more do you want?
Spring Kit - This is simply a way to help "tweak" your gun to get more efficiency. I recommend buying the 32* one because it comes with valve springs too.
Striker - Another internal part that influences low pressure. There are a few aftermarket ones, such as the ACP one, Insaine Pain, andthe DH striker. I really don't recommend getting a new one, just polish your stock one.
Bolt - The last part to a low pressure Spyder. Once again, you can mod your stock one, or buy an aftermarket one. I recommend a new one, because you can get a delrin, high flowing bolt that won't scratch up the reciever of the gun. I recommend getting the Spudnuk'l bolt. It's around $30 shipped, and one of the most highest flowing bolts on the market. Plus it's nylatron/delrin and has o-ring slots to cut down on blowback!
As you can see, going low pressure isn't cheap, but if you're not buying a higher end gun in the next 2 or so years, it's a good investment.
LINKS~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
SPPS - www.snapdragonpps.com
ACP - www.acp-products.com
Scenario Dreams (T-board) - www.scenariodreams.com
Spudnuk'l - www.spudnukl.com
So, you want to upgrade your Spyder, but don’t know what to get. Well, this should help you.
Barrel: One of the first things you’ll want for Spyder is a new barrel. A barrel is a good performance upgrade, to help achieve better accuracy. Be sure you know your exact bore size of your barrel, because you’ll need a good match-up with paint. Now that you now what the barrel helps achieve, but you don’t know which one to choose from. Well, here’s a guide.
$20 - $40 range: SP Teardrop, CP Classic, J&J Ceramic
$40 - $60 range: SP AA, CP 2 piece, Evil Driver
$60+ range: J&J Edge Kit, SP Freak barrel/kit, Empire Barrel Kits
New Hopper: So, you’ve got an electronic marker, and you’re chopping. Your problem may lie within your hopper, not the bolt like most people would say. I would suggest the eggII for your loader. Why you ask? Mainly because it’s:
Reliable, Easy to use/maintain, Fast, Battery saver, Good quality shells, and even Upgradeable!
There are other cheaper choices out there like the revvy, reloader II, and a few others that may work out fine when you’re just starting out, but you’ll want something faster because your fingers are getting faster. And this is that something
HPA tank: This is another good investment. CO2 can spike a lot, destroy o-rings, and give shootdown. With HPA, those are things of the past. I recommend crossfire or centerflag tanks. They have faster recharges than most other tanks on the market. Good sizes to get are 45/45 or 68/45 (fiber wrapped). If you’re on a low budget, you could pick up a 47/30 or 68/30 steel tanks for much cheaper. Get whatever size suits you the best. If you really can’t afford any of that, then anti-siphon your CO2! It will help out some, but not like HPA.
Feedneck: Tired of that POS plastic feedneck breaking? Pick up a metal, clamping feedneck. Good feednecks to look at, are the CCM ones, or the NDZ ones. They sit low and clamp very well. They can be a little pricey, so if you don’t want to spend $30+ on a feedneck, you could get a lapco one, which is clamping, for around $20.
Triggers/Switches: Sick of not being able to shoot past 10BPS? Want to shoot faster? Of course you do. So you should get a new trigger and switch. The stock switch is 250 grams. Aftermarket switches range from 25-50 grams. 25 gram switches bounce a lot so 50 grams is your best bet. SPPS sells switches with leads (solderless route), or without. To go with the switch, you’ll need a new trigger. Triggers are personal preference, and shouldn’t be decided on what others think. Besides preference, there’s quality. SPPS and ACP make the best quality triggers. Look into one of those to go with your new switch.
Board(s)Looking for a new board becasue you're capping your stock one, then check out the Scenario Dreams T-Board. The T-Board is a substitute control board for all electronic Spyders. The T-Board has an uncapped rate of fire (depends on your fingers speed) and includes an optional eye. If the eye is installed, it can be disabled at anytime by holding down the trigger for two sec.
T-Board Specs:
Uncapped firing rate
Tournement legal (Semi-auto only)
Breakbeam or bouncebeam eye option Breakbeam vs. Bouncebeam
Eye can be disabled on the fly (i.e. during play)
1 million trigger pull checks per second
Software debounce
Fully adjustable dwell times What is Dwell?
Fully adjustable eye delay
Saves settings when turned off
Setting to align eye during installation Eye Alignment Tool?
Upgradable Microcontroller
Uses stock charging plug
120 day (4 month) limited warranty against defects
30 day money back guarantee
The IR eye is availiable in both breakbeam and bouncebeam. It is recommended that the eye be installed by a certified airsmith or someone familiar with the operation of the marker. There is also a setting that will aid you with aligning the eye.
The T-board checks for trigger pulls 2.4 million times per second and has built-in debounce programming.
There is another board out made by XSF, but it's double the amount of money, and gives the same preformance, so I would never recommend it.
ASA (Air Source Adapter): Unfortunately for Spyder owners, the frames have offset holes, as opposed to every other gun with straight holes. Therefore, almost all drops and ASA will not fit without an adapter block. If you wish to use something like a CIP Unimount, then you'll need to find an adapter block. There are a few Spyder made drops out there, but if you're a non-drop inthusiast like most people, you'll need an adapter block. Good Unimounts would be:
NDZ EZ Turn, CP Direct Mount, and the CIP Unimount.
Grips: Looking for something way more comfortable than the stock grips? Then you'll want to pick up something like DYE stickies or the SP Protouch grips. Grips aren't a preformance upgrade, just a cosmetic upgrade, meant to achieve comfort.
LP Upgrades
A Spyder with stock internals operates at 800PSI. Most people don't know that LP is a side effect of max efficiency. Max efficiency comes at 300-400 PSI, so running any lower would defeat the purpose of achieving maximum efficiency.
OK, so now you know that, but you're wondering what you need to do to run your pressure that low. Not too hard, you'll need to get/mod:
Regulator - To lower and raise pressure, duh. A good choice for a regulator would be the Bob Long Torpedo, mainly because it can run off of CO2, fast recharge, inexpensive, and is very consistent.
High Flow V/A - To increase flow and allow you to run at a lower pressure, you'll need a new V/A. You can mod your current one, or you could buy a new one. An example of an aftermarket V/A is the CIP Assault Block (I recommend that one). It has a guage port, and is the highest flowing one.
Valve - The most crucial part to a low pressure setup. Once again, you can mod your current one, or buy an aftermarket one. There are plenty of aftermarket valves, but I recommend the NDZ one. It's cheap, and does it's job very well. What more do you want?
Spring Kit - This is simply a way to help "tweak" your gun to get more efficiency. I recommend buying the 32* one because it comes with valve springs too.
Striker - Another internal part that influences low pressure. There are a few aftermarket ones, such as the ACP one, Insaine Pain, andthe DH striker. I really don't recommend getting a new one, just polish your stock one.
Bolt - The last part to a low pressure Spyder. Once again, you can mod your stock one, or buy an aftermarket one. I recommend a new one, because you can get a delrin, high flowing bolt that won't scratch up the reciever of the gun. I recommend getting the Spudnuk'l bolt. It's around $30 shipped, and one of the most highest flowing bolts on the market. Plus it's nylatron/delrin and has o-ring slots to cut down on blowback!
As you can see, going low pressure isn't cheap, but if you're not buying a higher end gun in the next 2 or so years, it's a good investment.
LINKS~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
SPPS - www.snapdragonpps.com
ACP - www.acp-products.com
Scenario Dreams (T-board) - www.scenariodreams.com
Spudnuk'l - www.spudnukl.com